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Ama Dablam Expedition
 
 

Everest Expedition

Ama Dablam Expedition

Lakpa Ri Expedition

 

Autumn 2008

 
 

Ama Dablam Expedition - 32 Days
 

Ama Dablam is one of the most stunning peaks in the Himalaya and one of the most impressive mountains in the world.

Situated in the heart of Everest's Khumbu region, it lies directly above Thyangboche Monastery on the well-worn path to Everest Base Camp and is admired by thousands of trekkers and climbers every year. This expedition offers a superb, technical climbing experience in a magnificent setting, with numerous cultural and scenic diversions...

Itinerary of Ama Dablam Expedition in Detail

Day 01 : Flight to KTM

Day 02 : Sight seen in Kathmandu

Day 03 : Prepared Expedition & Briefing in Ministry of Tourism
Arrival KTM Transfer Hotel, short walks in Thamel

Day 04 : Flight to Lukla, trekking to Phakding Lodge

Day 05 : Trekking to Namche Bazar

Day 06 : Namche Bazar acclimatisation day - walk Khumjung – Kunde – Everest View Hotel

Day 07 : Trekking to Tengpoche, 3870 m, visit monastery

Day 08 : Climb small “peak” (4100 m) above Tengpoche for acclimatisation; afternoon trekking to Pangpoche, 3950 m Lodge

Day 09 : Trekking to Pheriche, 4400 m Lodge

Day 10 : Trekking to Lobuche, 4950 m Lodge

Day 11 : Climb Kala Pattar, visit Everest BC, back to Lobuche

Day 12 : Trekking to Dingpoche, 4350 m

Day 13 : Trekking to Pangpoche or to starting point for Ama Dablam-BC

Day 14-27 : Climbing Ama Dablam - 6812m.

Day 28 : Trekking BC Ama Dablam – Namche Bazar

Day 29 : Trekking to Lukla Lodge B/L/D

Day 30 : Flight back to KTM Hotel B/-/-

Day 31 : Leisure day

Day 32 : Flight back to Home

Max team size : 12 climbers
Requirements : You must have 6000m experience

Price Includes :
• Domestic airport taxes.
• Domestic flights Kathmandu – Lukla and return
• All airport transfers.
• Accommodation at our base in Kathmandu, 3 star or 4 star hotel twin share BB basis.
• All road transport by private vehicles.
• All lodges on the trek with full board.
• All camping facilities and meals during the expedition.
• All porter age costs.
• All costs for leaders, guides and local helpers (Climbing guide, climbing sherpa, cook, kitchen helpers)
• Climbing permit fees for all climbing leaders and other staffs.
• Leaders & all other staffs climbing equipments.
• Tents (member tent, kitchen tent, dining tent)
• While camping twin share basis.
• Climbing permits for Ama Dablam
• Climbing rope, fix rope, Ice screws, rock pitans, snow bars, Carabineer
• Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, his 3 meals and air ticket.
• Per Person 35 KG maximum Equipments, luggage or barrels allowed for expedition till to Base Camp.
• Per Person 25 KG maximum Expedition equipments, luggage or barrels is allowed on the way back to Lukla from Base Camp. (Expedition equipments, luggage or barrels carried by Porter or Yak). (Transportation of all food and climbing equipments to base camp and back.)

Price Excludes : International round trip airfare to Kathmandu., Food for the summit day and night., Meals in Kathmandu., Alcohol and bottle-drinks while trekking and in Kathmandu., Airport taxes and Nepalese visa., Excess baggage charges., Sightseeing & Entry fees, Medical / Evacuation insurance (highly recommended)., Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of the company. (This means if flight delays or cancellation you have to bear the extra costs or any other problems due to weather), Personal climbing equipments. (Climbing boats, Harness, Ice axe, Jummer, Descenders or Eight fingers, ropes, Carbines, ice screws, snow bars, crampons, Gaiter - up, Tape sealing, etc.), Nepali visas., Satellite phones., Gamo bag, Oxygen, Mask & regulator., Garbage Deposit USD 2000.00 (Sharing of the total person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don't take back their garbage to Namche Bazaar & Kathmandu., Tips

Price : Contact us

Help List for your personal Equipments:
• Climbing Gear
1. Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
2. 3 locking carabineers large, pear-shaped carabineer is best, screw gate type recommended
3. 3 regular carabineers light weight wire gate type are recommended
4. Ice axe w/leash Light weight (i.e. Grivel Air tech or Black Diamond Raven) under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
5. 1 technical ice tool
6. 1 helmet
7. 2 mechanical ascenders with handles
8. 1 pair plastic expedition boots - make sure that the boot is expedition quality and has a new or in excellent condition stock liner or alveolite liner. Koflach Arctis Expedition, Lowa Civetta, or Scarpa Alpha w/ high altitude liner) or Leather Double Mountaineering boots (i.e. La Sportiva Olympic Mons, Boreal GI or equivalent, must be mountaineering/crampon compatible
9. 1 pair insulated super-gaiters. Super-gaiters will provide more warmth and are required. If the toe section of the rubber rand of the gaiter fits loosely you may want to consider gluing the toe section to the boot.
10. Crampons Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended, include a simple repair kit (i.e. Grivel G12, Black Diamond Contact, or Charlet Moser Super 12 make sure they fit properly with your super-gaiters prior to arrival in Argentina
11. Adjustable trekking poles
12. Belay\ rappel device (Figure 8 preferred)
13. 2 sewn runners (shoulder length)
14. 1 short daisy chain

• Upper Body
1. 2 cotton t-shirts
2. 1 polypropylene t-shirt
3. 2 long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days.
4. 2 women sports bras Synthetic, no cotton!
5. 2 soft shells Marmot Dri-clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket (R2 pullover acceptable).
6. Down/synthetic sweater or vest Patagonia Puffball Jacket or Sweater preferred, R4 Jacket acceptable.
7. Hard Shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers.
8. 1 expedition down parka with hood. This is probably your most important piece of clothing! It is important that your jacket is 700+ fill down, baffle construction (not sewn through seams) and has a thick insulated hood.

• Hand wear: We require two systems; one glove system for lower on the mountain and a mitten over mitt system for the cold temperatures encountered on summit day.

1. 2 pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
2. 1 pair warm gloves Fleece or wool
3. 1 pair of leather work gloves for the fixed lines, should fit over liner gloves
4. 1 pair expedition shell gloves
5. 1 pair modular expedition shell mitts. OR Pro Mitts If they do not have wrist straps
consider sewing one on so that you can either attach it to your jacket or cinch the strap
to your wrist so that you do not loose your mittens in high winds.

• Head gear
1. Warm hat wool or synthetic that cover your ears.
2. Balaclava
3. Face mask
4. Shade hat or baseball cap
5. Glacier glasses 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case (i.e.
Julbo or Cebe)*.
6. 1 pair extra sunglasses (Also with UV protection in case your 1st pair breaks)
7. 1 ski goggles with UV protection *

• Lower Body
1. 4- pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or Capilene
2. 2-3 pair light weight trekking socks
3. 4 pair med-heavy wool socks check boot fit with liner and wool socks on
4. 1 pair nylon shorts
5. 1 pair nylon pants for trekking and around camp
6. 2 pair lightweight long underwear bottoms
7. 1 pair fleece pants w/ side zipper or farmer johns or “puff-ball pants”
8. 1 pair soft shell pants. . (i.e., Patagonia Guide pants or OR Granite Pants. Schoeller
fabrics)
9. 1 pair of hard shell pants. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips, Gore-Tex or
equivalent is best.
10. 1 pair down booties (optional)
11. 1 pair trail shoes for the hike to base camp and use at camp.
12. 1 pair sandals or tennis shoes for Kathmandu and in camp.

• All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large plastic bags.
• Sleeping gear
1. 1 down or synthetic sleeping bag Rated to -20 F
2. Sleeping pad full length closed cell foam (mandatory) and Ύ length Therma-Rest for
extra warmth and comfort.

• Pack
1. 1 large capacity internal frame (4,000+ cubic inches)
2. 1 daypack for the approach hike, possible use on summit day and carry-on pack. If you
plan to use it for your summit pack it must be large enough for your down jacket, misc.
Clothes, food and water. The Lowe Alpine Neutrino or Black Diamond Speed 28 are
excellent, lightweight (16 oz.) choices.
3. 2 large (7,500+cu.in.) duffle bags for gear. Must be durable for use on pack animals
4. 1 small duffel bag to store street at the Mountain Madness office in Kathmandu
5. Small padlocks for duffel bags

• Misc.
1. 1 first-aid kit with ibuprofen and any other doctor recommended medications
2. Lip balm. At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful, to hang around
your neck
3. Sunscreen. At least SPF 40
4. Headlamp. Petzl Myobelt 3 or Black Diamond Polar Star
5. 3 Water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle).
6. Hydration bladder with drinking tube for lower mountain-(optional).
7. 2 water bottle insulators
8. Plastic mug w/snap-on lid, 16 oz. or larger.
9. Bowl and spoon Plastic, small Tupperware works well. Lexan spoons are best.
10. Pocket knife small Swiss-army type.
11. Water purification Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals.
12. Toiletry kit. Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag.
13. 3-4 Large plastic bags, for keeping miscellaneous gear dry
14. Nylon stuff sacks For food and gear storage (OR has a good selection); large Ziplocs are
useful also
15. Bandana
16. Camp towel
17. Ear plugs
18. Hand wipes
19. 1 small stainless steel thermos (optional)
20. Favorite snack foods (no more than 2 pounds)
21. Paperback books, cards, Walkman, etc.
22. Binoculars (optional for viewing the route from the lower camps)
23. Camera 1 light weight point & shoot on the mountain, 1 large SLR type is optional for the
trek in and base camp
24. Fanny pack or wallet for travel documents, money & passport
25. Passport and passport photos
26. Airline ticket

Check dates and prices
What is included in price
Excluded from price
Peak fees, porters, sherpas and western guides, all meals on climb, sherpa wages, local staff insurance. All group climbing equipment, fixed ropes and group medical kit. All tents, kitchen equipment, food and plenty of hot drinks.


International airfares, visas, transfer fees, departure taxes, excess baggage, tips, personal travel insurance, personal expenses such as gifts, phone calls, laundry and alcohol. (For those joining the expedition in Pangboche, all costs incurred prior to arriving, and after leaving Pangboche are excluded from the price, but hotels, flights KTM-Lukla-KTM, porter to Pangboche can be arranged on request)

Experience Level / prerequisites
Fitness Level needed

Ama Dablam is a serious climb requiring extensive use of ropes and equipment. If your climbing experience is limited or your skills are in need of a tune-up, we prefer you to join us beforehand for our other smaller peak climbing. This would pre-acclimatise you and ensure a thorough brush-up on skills for your ascent. Minimum requirements are successful climbs of two 6000m peaks previously or greater, rock climbing ability to second to grade 18 or above or lead climbing to grade 15.
You will need to be able to walk for 6-8 hours a day with a pack. Early on the days are not hugely long as your body needs time to acclimatise. You are on holiday after all, so there is time to stop for a long lunch and read a book or take some photographs. We have yaks and porters to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and climbing gear.
Summit days will require an extra special effort but by then you should be quite strong from all the trekking during the previous weeks. A big day 10+ hours will be needed as we set off .

For Booking & Further Information Click Here.

 
 
 
     
 

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