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Lakpari Expedition
 
 

Everest Expedition

Ama Dablam Expedition

Lakpa Ri Expedition
 

Autumn 2008
 
 

Lakpa Ri Expedition (Tibet) - 30 Days
 

Lhakpa Ri (7,045m./23,000ft.) is an attractive peak which divides the upper East Rongbuk glacier and upper Kharta glacier. It is close enough to Everest to feel the enormous power and character of the world's highest Mountain, but is set far enough back to appreciate the true geometric perspective of this great peak.

George Mallory was in fact the first person ever to set foot on the mountain when he climbed to the nearby Lhakpa La from the eastern side during the first Everest reconnaissance of 1921. It was from the Lhakpa La Mallory first saw the North Col and the upper East Rongbuk glacier. He could see the long sweep of the north ridge leading up from the North Col to the Summit and realised that at last he had discovered a potential way to climb Everest, In a state of great excitement he dashed across the upper East Rongbuk and made the first ascent to the North Col. That night he slept on the North Col. in defiance of contemporary medical opinion as he had been told if he dared to sleep at such altitudes then he would become severely brain damaged. Mallory felt fine the next morning and in fact climbed a short way up the north ridge but was forced to retreat because his companions were too terrified.

The first ascent of the Lhakpa Ri had to wait another fifteen years and was climbed by the indomitable Bill Tilman during the Everest reconnaissance of 1936. The second ascent was made in 1988 by the French Everest summiter Michelle Pelle. The third ascent was done Ken McConnel in 1991, who organised a guided trip which put out of seven on the summit. The common factor amongst all members on that trip was that they were both fit and motivated.

In 2009 we will use the same route as the three previous ascents, this being the north ridge. The route is technically very easy and objective very safe, i.e. it is not prone to avalanche danger or stone fall. The ascent can be accomplished by anyone who is a fit, well acclimatised and highly motivated trekker.

On the summit day you will be required to walk up a snow slope wearing crampons and using a ice axe but during the trip from base camp to Lhakpa Ri we will have had plenty of opportunities to practise basic snow and ice travel and those who wish to acquire the techniques for correct glacier travel will do so. The last 30m/100ft to the true summit is quite exposed but very easy. It will safeguarded by fixed rope. You will be clipped into the rope so even if your have a vaso bagal attack or your first grand mall seizure at such an inopportune moment you cannot fall.

The summit view from Lhakpa Ri rivals that from many of the world's greatest mountains. It gives very unusual vies of some of the world's best known mountains and excellent views of some very little known mountains. Amongst the highlights are the Nyonno Ri range in eastern Tibet, the north face of Chomolonzo and the north faces of Makalu and Pethangtse. Also the beautiful and little known peak of Shartse and the frightening Kangshung (east) face of Everest and the east face of Lhotse.

There is an unrivalled view of the north east ridge of Everest, the North Col, Changtse, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. You also have a chance to grasp the immensity of the Tibetan plateau as you can see hundreds of miles across the wildest of landscapes.

Itinerary of Lakapa Ri Expedition in Detail

Day 01 : ARRIVAL IN KATHMANDU ( 1,520m.)

Day 02 : KATHMANDU - At leisure in Kathmandu.

Day 03 : KATHMANDU - Free day in Kathmandu. Today your Chinese/Tibetan visas will be arranged. This day in Kathmandu is an opportunity to hire any pieces of mountaineering equipment you do not already have.

Day 04 : LHASA - Fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa

Day 05-06 : LHASA - During these two days we will tour the fabled city of Lhasa, A completely forbidden city until very recent times, Lhasa was the Holy Grail for many by central Asian explorers of past generations. The city has of course been altered by the Chinese occupation and by the impact of foreign visitors ( like us!). However much of the original character remains and whilst jostling through the Potala with crowds ethnic Tibetans, it is hard not to be captivated by this magnificent civilization. We will visit the great monasteries of Sera and Drepung, both of which were extensively destroyed in the cultural revolution nut are now being rebuilt. We will also visit the Jokhang and of course the Potala. Lhasa is at 3,600m/12,000ft and provides ideal acclimatization for the first few days. The relatively comfortable hotel ( the only on during Tibetan stay ) will give members some time to get to know each other without the stress of mountaineering.

Day 07 : Lhasa-GYANTSE

Day 08 : Gyantse-SHIGATSE

Day 09 : XEGAR - We travel from Shigatse to Sega. Xegar and in fact the only hotel within a 200 km radius)

Day 10 : EVEREST BASE CAMP

Day 11-14 : BASE CAMP - We will spend these for days in and around base camp at 5,200 m.. The safety and well being of all members of critical importance and consequently we will spend these days to reach a good acclimatization level.

Day 15 : RONGBUK - 5,500m. /18,000ft

Day 16 : CAMP II - Again with the assistance of the yaks we will move from camp one (5,500m.) to camp II (6,000m.)

Day 17 : CAMP III - Again with the assistance of the Yaks and their drivers, we will move from camp two (6,000m.) to camp three (6,400m.).

Day 18-23 : ACCLIMATIZATION - During these six days we will continue our acclimatization process to out new height of 6,400m.

Day 24 : BASE CAMP - The yaks will return and we will descend with their assistance from camp three back to base camp at 5,200m.

Day 25 : BASE CAMP - We will pack base camp and be ready for the journey.

Day 26 : TINGRI - We will have a very start and drive back over the Pang La (5,200m.).

Day 27 : KATHMANDU - We will have a pre-dawn start from Old Tingri and drive across the Tibetan plateau, over the Lalung La, then down to the border between Tibet and Nepal. We will then get our Nepalese bus and drive to Kathmandu which takes about five hours. On day 28 we will descend from 4,500m. to 1,000m. During this long and steep descent the road is very rough and is very vulnerable to landslides and to being washed out. As we will be traveling at the tail end of the monsoon, rain induced landslides are almost a certainty. We will then use local porters to carry the equipment around the landslides and continue our journey on the other side.

Day 28-29 : KATHMANDU - These days are to enjoy the first showers available for more than three weeks and some excellent food.

Day 30 : DEPARTURE - Transfer to Airport to Depart Katmandu for onward journey.

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